Many people say a visit to Japan is not complete without a stay in a ryokan. Derek, on the other hand, would say a visit to Japan is not complete without fighting off ninjas, but each to his own.
Historically, the Japanese have worked diligently at perfecting the art of relaxation and ryokans are prominent evidence of this. They are simple, yet serene guest rooms with everything focused on providing the best customer service and experience.
While planning our trip last year, I spent weeks searching for the perfect ryokan – not too far to travel to, but also not too close to a city. I wanted a very traditional ryokan with its own hot springs (or onsen).
am pleased to say I think I found the perfect one.
The ryokan was located in beautiful surroundings
While it was only three hours on the local train and Shinkansen from Tokyo, we felt light years away from the hustle and bustle of city life. After our welcome drink of hot tea and home-made biscuits, the friendly staff escorted us to our room. As they opened the rice paper sliding door, everything looked very traditional with tatami mats on the floor, low tables and closets hiding the bedding.
While I could not hide my excitement about the fact that they were going to make our beds – or rather futons – during dinner time, Derek’s face dropped when he couldn’t see his bed. He was knackered from all the travel so you can imagine his delight when all he wanted to do was lie down. So we dragged out the mattress and he immediately dozed off.
Our room pre-beds
And all made up!
After about an hour I decided time was too short and precious to sleep it away so I donned my robe and headed for the nearest onsen. There were seven private springs dotted around the property – all with naturally heated water. I love hot water, but this was nuclear, so it took a while to get in. Once in, however, it was pure heaven.
Proudly wearing my full outfit, including the toe-socks and shoes
Each of us also received two traditional outfits we could wear around the property (totally helped us save on laundry!), which I completely embraced. At first it is a little confusing to figure out with all the bows and straps and wraps, but after watching a YouTube video I “had it all figured out”. I actually felt quite chuffed with myself walking into the dining room and sitting down on the mats for dinner, until Derek kindly pointed out I was wearing my over shirt completely inside out with all the labels and lining hanging out!! I was up and into the bathroom quicker than a ninja and – thankfully – before he could compose himself and take a picture! The embarrassment. A few minutes later I emerged looking like a samurai again.
Dinner was a traditional “kaiseki” multi-course meal where every food item is meticulously planned. The chef pays particular attention to the presentation, colours (of the food and crockery), season and available local food. Ours consisted of about 12 courses with very interesting flavours. The sushi, sashimi and beef were completely out of this world. Some of the tofu and vegetables we didn’t enjoy so much, but we tried everything. It was fascinating being served each course with incredible precision and care. I was also beyond excited about having my first ever saki – it was divine!!
We spent the next two days in robes switching between the various onsen. We were determined to try all seven on the property; some were set outdoors, some were warmer than others and all were of varying sizes. Because they are private, each one felt like your own personal hot tub with a view. It was wonderful to relax without a care in the world and we really appreciated this time away from the madness we were used to.
Breakfast was again a choice of traditional Japanese or western. Derek went for the safe choice, while I opted for Japanese. Unfortunately I didn’t really enjoy this and longed for a piece of toast!
I finished most of the bowl of rice porridge, but really struggled with the rest of my plate…
After breakfast we set off on a coastal walk. Not far from the guest house is a waterfall, suspension bridge and some amazing coastal views. It was slightly windy and chilly but lovely to get out into the fresh air. We also did not mind getting cold because it gave us more excuse to spend the rest of the afternoon sitting in the hot springs.
During the evenings Derek seemed to be transported to video game world. Wearing Japanese clothes while sitting in a traditional Japanese room with paper doors and window shades, somehow meant you had to be on your guard for ninjas so he had to stay alert! *insert eye rolling emoji*
It seemed that a ninja attack was the least of his worries. His duvet was too small and too hot (needless to say, he stole my bed sheet). He also hated the futons as his hip or bum bones could touch the floor when lying a certain way. The whole night was a juggling act for him; and all the while I was dreaming about my previous life as a Japanese lady drinking saki for a living.
For me, the experience in this beautiful ryokan was without a doubt one of the highlights of our entire trip. I cannot imagine a place more serene, more relaxing with a service of that standard, anywhere else in the world. As Derek noted, it would have been amazing to be here during winter to have snow falling while you sit in the warm water. I guess we will have to come back sometime.
