India is a vast country that deserves more than one visit, but as part of this trip we wanted to travel the Golden Triangle that includes a few of the major must-see sights. We booked a car and driver for the duration of our trip as there was no chance of us trying to attempt driving in India and all the sights would be done on our own or with a guide (at an extra cost), whichever we preferred.
We knew our driver would be waiting for us at the airport, but what we didn’t know was that about 100 other drivers – also with name boards in hand – would be doing the same for their guests! Derek stayed with the luggage while I started making my way down the haystack, looking for the needle. Thankfully it only took me a minute to locate our driver, Rajendra.
After a busy week in London with late nights and early mornings, plus a long day and night flying, we were both knackered so opted for another afternoon “nap”. This “nap” turned into a mammoth 6-hour sleeping beauty slumber and when we finally awoke from our sleep coma we ready for dinner. We stayed in a lovely hotel in the outskirts of Old Delhi. Neither of us felt like venturing into town, so we had drinks in the bar followed by the obligatory curry in the hotel restaurant. We were still feeling brave at this point so opted for the meat and ordered a lamb and chicken curry. Both were delicious!
At 9am the next morning reception called to say our guide was there. We walked outside and couldn’t see Rajendra or his vehicle. Another person approached us, saying he was there to pick us up. Now, call us paranoid if you want, but we weren’t simply going to hop in his car! Our questions about what happened to Rajendra went broadly unanswered, but we were assured all was good and well with the new arrangements. Unfortunately our Hindi wasn’t good enough (read: completely non-existent!) to argue. We found out afterwards, with an Indian shake of the head, that they simply changed schedules.
Our new driver was, quite conveniently, also called Raj. We only had one day in Delhi (since we slept the other one away) so had to cram in a few sights.
Our first stop was Jama Masjid – India’s largest mosque (it takes a staggering 25,000 people at one time) that sits in the middle of a chaotic Old Delhi. Shoes weren’t allowed and we had to cover up so Derek and I received colourful robes to cover our shoulders and legs. The square was pretty impressive and we loved walking around the beautiful mosque.
Afterwards we were going on a rickshaw ride through the narrow and incredibly crowded streets of the old town. I was delighted as I couldn’t wait to see the ‘real’ Delhi up close and personal. Derek, on the other hand, was rather… how shall we say… a touch less enthusiastic.
Derek looking anything but impressed about this suggestion! 😉
We set off over the bumpy roads with Derek’s head hitting the top of the rickshaw every time we went through a ditch – which was pretty much constantly! His 6’4″ frame also didn’t quite work in the tiny carriage so let’s just say it was an interesting and eventful ride! Luckily the driver didn’t know any of the Afrikaans swear words…
If dogs weren’t lazily crossing the streets, cows were sleeping in the middle of the road. People on motorbikes, people in cars, people in and on top of buses, on donkey carts and on bicycles were appearing from nowhere, taking the tiniest of gap to get through the traffic. It was mayhem!!
All the while vendors selling everything imaginable from sweets to goats to wedding saris and smells were changing from spicy one minute to plain disgusting the next! It was mesmerising.
Chickens on their way to a shop or restaurant… which explains why we went veggie after day 2!
We had to stop at the obligatory shop that came “specially recommended” by the rickshaw cyclist for the hard sell of some painting that I was assured was an original – but you kind of expect that. We were intrigued by the spice market that also turned out to be a shop rather than a market but at least we got to smell all the interesting teas and spices before a firm “no thanks” and back in the rickshaw.
Back in the car, our driver expertly navigated Delhi’s roads to our next stop – the Qutb Minar Complex. The complex is studded with ruined tombs and monuments, but dominated by the spectacular Qutb Minar – a soaring 73m Afghan style victory tower and minaret. We took our time to walk through the complex enjoying being back in the sun and heat after cold London.
No visit to Delhi would be complete without a quick stop at Gandhi’s final resting place. Situated on the banks of the Yamuna River is Raj Ghat – a simple black marble platform that marks the spot where Gandhi was cremated following his assassination.
One of the most captivating of Delhi’s mausoleums is Humayun’s Tomb, a beautiful building that seems to float above the gardens that surround it. After six years of restoration, everything looked beautiful and it was wonderful to walk through the gardens with green parakeets and various other birds in the trees above us.
Our final stop for the day was India Gate – a 42m high stone memorial arch that pays tribute to around 90,000 Indian army soldiers who died in WWI. Going on looks alone, this was India’s answer to the Arc de Triomphe. Just wish there was a French patisserie on the corner!
Delhi is busy, relentlessly busy, but at the same time fascinating and crazy in every possible way. Our driver described the things needed to drive in India: good horn, good brakes, good mirrors and GOOD LUCK!
Cows rummaging through the rubbish, with the cows, dogs, goats, pigs and monkeys