This afternoon we travelled around the corner to Danco Island – a tiny dome of ice and rock with a large Gentoo colony. By this stage the clouds had cleared and the sky was blue. Adrie however, was still dressed in four layers at the top and three at the bottom. So as we started the hike to the top, which was about a 20-30 min climb, we both started to overheat. The sweat was pouring from my brow and I was sure with it all the suntan cream. I joked a few days ago I was coming to Antarctica for a tan after being in the lovely English weather but this was for real. I spent the rest of the afternoon just in a t-shirt.
Crossing penguin highways on our way up
At the summit of the hill there was quite a big open space the size of a rugby field. Finally we could have the peace and quiet we craved. We are one of the smaller vessels in these waters with just over 100 people, but I don’t think I could take many more. Once alone, I plonked myself in the snow and enjoyed the views. The silence was deafening, broken only by the odd screech of a penguin calling for its mate.
And so it was as we sat watching the goings-on of a few penguins not more than 3m away. Enough squawking had brought the one’s mate over. She was ready to swap places. Normally each partner sits on the egg for a few days while the other feeds before switching around; clearly one of them had had enough… in more ways than one. Once she was replaced on her egg by her partner she was free to go and stretch her tiny little legs. But after sitting for a few days, she was very adamant some DIY was needed. Each nest is carefully built from rocks and pebbles carried in their bills to build up a nest that is higher and free from melting snow. But why go all the way down to the beach – a 20 min walk – when you can just steal pebbles from the neighbours? So a cat and mouse game ensued with this penguin trying to outwit the others and steal more real estate. It is not without its dangers. Of course there is still a sharp snapping beak sitting on top of the pebbles you are trying to steal. But you also know that the local inhabitants can only reach and stretch so far, not willing to stand up off their own eggs. So with a bit of courage and ingenuity, and obviously some cat-burglar skills, we watched for 30 min as the brazen Gentoo pillaged the surrounding nests. It was great fun to watch – like a live nature documentary just for us.
